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The Buckeye Hunter Hub Whitetail System

MODULE 0 – WELCOME & HOW THIS WORKS



Lesson 0.1 – What This System Is (and Isn’t)

You’re about to walk through a complete, written system for consistently killing whitetails using maps, real-world scouting, and simple, repeatable decisions.

This system is built around three ideas:

  1. Maps first. You’ll learn to “see” deer movement on the map before you ever step into the woods.

  2. Minimal guessing. Every step is designed to reduce luck and increase repeatable patterns.

  3. Data over ego. We care more about what the sign, weather, and history say than about what we hope is true.

What this system is:

  • A written, step-by-step approach from e-scouting to post-season review

  • Focused on real hunters with jobs, families, and limited time

  • Applicable to both public and private land

What this system is not:

  • A guarantee of giant bucks

  • A replacement for local regulations, safety rules, or common sense

  • A “gimmick” built on secret sauce or magic products

If you work through the lessons and actually do the fieldwork, you’ll end the season with:

  • A better understanding of where deer travel on your spots

  • Smarter stand locations with better entry and exit

  • A written record of weather, movement, and results to build on every year

Lesson 0.2 – Your Tools & Setup

You’ll get the most out of this system if you have:

  • Buckeye Hunter Hub map or similar hunting map(Hybrid imagery, topo, and the ability to drop pins and notes.)

  • Weather & wind app Something that shows hour-by-hour wind direction and speed.

  • Notebook or digital log This can be:

    • A dedicated hunting logbook

    • A notes app on your phone

    • A spreadsheet as long as you use it.

  • Basic navigation Phone GPS, or at minimum a compass and awareness of directions.

Lesson 0.3 – Pre-Course Self-Assessment

Before you start, take a few minutes to be honest about where you’re at.

Write down answers to these:

  1. Experience level

    • Never hunted deer

    • New (0–2 seasons)

    • Intermediate (3–10 seasons)

    • Experienced (10+ seasons) but want more consistency

  2. Primary weapons

    • Bow / Crossbow

    • Rifle / Shotgun / Muzzleloader

    • Combination (note which you use most)

  3. Land access

    • Only public land

    • Only private land

    • Mix of both

  4. Realistic goal for this season

    • “Shoot my first deer.”

    • “Fill the freezer with any legal deer.”

    • “Kill a mature buck for my area.”

    • “Increase encounters with mature deer, even if I eat a tag.”

Keep these answers somewhere visible. We’ll revisit them at the end.


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MODULE 1 – WHITETAIL FOUNDATIONS & SEASON STRATEGY

Lesson 1.1 – The Whitetail Year at a Glance

Whitetails live in cycles. If you understand the big picture, your map and stand decisions suddenly make sense.

Phase 1 – Late Winter / Early Spring

  • Deer are recovering from rut and winter stress.

  • Food is scarce; survival is the priority.

  • They key in on remaining food sources and thick cover.

Phase 2 – Spring / Summer

  • Green-up brings abundant food.

  • Bucks grow antlers; does carry fawns.

  • Movement is more relaxed and often visible in open areas late in the day.

Phase 3 – Early Season (Opening weeks of fall season)

  • Deer follow somewhat predictable patterns:

    • Bedding → evening food → bedding

  • Bucks can still be on semi-summer patterns, especially in lower-pressure areas.

Phase 4 – Pre-Rut

  • Bucks increase daylight movement.

  • Scrapes and rubs appear and intensify.

  • Doe groups become more important as bucks begin checking them.

Phase 5 – Rut

  • Peak breeding window.

  • Bucks may travel farther and at unusual times.

  • Chaos increases, but so does opportunity.

Phase 6 – Late Season

  • Food and energy conservation rule again.

  • Surviving deer concentrate on high-calorie food near safe cover.

  • Brutal conditions can create fantastic hunting when you time it right.

You’ll align your strategy with these phases. The rest of the course ties decisions back to:

“What phase am I in, and what does that mean for bedding, food, and pressure?”

Lesson 1.2 – The Core Needs: Food, Cover, Security, Breeding

Every deer move you care about revolves around:

  1. Food – crops, mast (acorns), browse, green fields

  2. Cover – thick, safe places to bed

  3. Security – avoiding predators (you included)

  4. Breeding – primarily during the rut phases

In general:

  • Daytime bedding is usually in or near thick cover with escape routes and a wind advantage.

  • Evening food is often more open: fields, plots, edges.

  • Travel corridors connect bedding and food in ways that keep deer as safe as possible.

Your job is to:

  1. Locate bedding areas

  2. Locate food sources

  3. Find (or predict) the travel between them

  4. Factor in wind and access so you can hunt them without being detected

Lesson 1.3 – Building Your Season Goal

You need clarity. Vague goals like “shoot a big buck” don’t help you make hunting decisions.

In your log, write:

  1. Primary Outcome Goal (1 sentence)Example:

    • “I want to kill my first deer with a bow.”

    • “I want to fill my freezer with at least 2 deer.”

    • “I want a 3.5+ year old buck from this specific area.”

  2. Process Goals (2–3 items)These are things you have full control over:

    • “I will keep a hunt log for every sit.”

    • “I will scout each core spot at least once in the off-season.”

    • “I will only hunt stands with the correct wind.”

  3. Non-Negotiables

    • Clear rules you won’t break:

      • “I don’t take marginal shots.”

      • “I obey all regulations, no exceptions.”

      • “If the wind is wrong, I don’t hunt that stand.”

This becomes your “North Star” for decisions later.


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MODULE 2 – E-SCOUTING WITH THE BUCKEYE HUNTER HUB MAP

Lesson 2.1 – Map Views: Aerial, Topo, Hybrid

Before you drop a single pin, learn what each view tells you.

  • Aerial Imagery

    • Shows fields, timber, edges, creeks, clearcuts, roads, houses.

    • Great for identifying:

      • Field edges

      • Edge habitat (where two habitat types meet)

      • Open vs thick cover

  • Topo Lines (Topographic)

    • Show elevation, hills, ridges, valleys, saddles.

    • Closely spaced lines = steep

    • Widely spaced lines = flat

    • Useful for hill-country:

      • Ridges, points, benches

      • Saddles between high points

  • Hybrid View

    • Aerial + topo combined.

    • Ideal for planning access & understanding both habitat and terrain.

Practice: Pick one of your hunting areas. Spend 5–10 minutes toggling between aerial, topo, and hybrid, just to see how the same landmark looks in each view.

Lesson 2.2 – Finding Likely Bedding Areas on the Map

Deer bed where they feel safe, have a good view, and can use wind and terrain to their advantage.

Look for:

  • In Hill Country:

    • Leeward ridges (downwind side of the ridge)

    • Points extending off main ridges

    • Benches (flat-Ish shelves on a hillside)

  • In Flat or Mixed Country:

    • Thick cover near edges (swamp/timber edge, clearcut/timber edge)

    • Small islands of brush or timber in otherwise open areas

    • Overgrown fence lines, old homesteads, abandoned corners

On aerial or hybrid:

  • Darker, rougher textures often indicate thicker cover.

  • Isolated patches of cover near food are often hot bedding areas, especially for does.

Mark suspected bedding with a consistent symbol or color (e.g., yellow pins labeled “BED?”).

Lesson 2.3 – Finding Food Sources and Destination Spots

On your map, identify:

  • Large Destination Food Sources:

    • Ag fields (corn, beans, alfalfa)

    • Large food plots

    • Orchards

  • Smaller, High-Value Food Sources:

    • Oak flats (often look like more open hardwoods)

    • Clearcuts or new growth

    • Edges of swamps with browse

Mark these with another color (e.g., green pins: “FOOD – beans field,” “FOOD – oak flat”).

Note:

  • Early season often revolves around predictable food.

  • Late season often revolves around the best remaining high-calorie food.

Lesson 2.4 – Drawing the Travel: Corridors, Funnels, Pinch Points

Now connect the dots between bedding and food.

Look for “most likely” travel paths:

  • Deer often use:

    • Edges (timber/field, thick/thin)

    • Creek bottoms

    • Saddles or gaps in ridges

    • Low spots in fence lines

    • Strips of cover between two open areas

Funnels are places where terrain or cover forces movement through a narrow area. Examples:

  • A narrow strip of woods between two fields

  • A crossing where a creek, steep bank, and open field pinch together

  • A saddle between two higher ridges

Mark travel corridors and funnels with another marker type (e.g., blue lines or pins labeled “FUNNEL”).

Lesson 2.5 – Stand Site Candidates & Pin System

Now you’re ready to choose possible stand locations on the map.

For each property:

  1. Choose 2–5 potential stand trees in logical spots:

    • Downwind of travel or food

    • Within ethical shot distance

    • With possible cover for you

  2. Mark each with a “STAND” pin.

    • Include:

      • Short name: “North Ridge Stand,” “Creek Crossing Stand”

      • Best winds (we will refine this later)

      • Primary purpose: “Evening food,” “Morning bedding entry,” “All-day rut funnel”

  3. Have a simple color system:

    • Red – Primary stands

    • Orange – Backup / experimental stands

    • Gray – Retired / bad stands (later in the season)

This is draft mode. You will adjust these after boots-on-the-ground scouting.

Lesson 2.6 – E-Scouting Assignment

Pick one main property or public area.

  1. Identify:

    • 2–3 suspected bedding areas

    • 2–3 key food sources

    • 2–3 travel corridors or funnels

  2. Drop:

    • At least 3 stand pins

    • Access ideas (draw rough paths you might walk)

  3. In your log, write:

    • Why each stand looks good on the map

    • What phase(s) you think it might be best for (early, pre-rut, rut, late)

You now have a map-based draft of how deer might use this area. Next, we test reality on the ground.


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MODULE 3 – BOOTS-ON-THE-GROUND SCOUTING

Lesson 3.1 – Scouting with a Purpose

Don’t wander. Every scouting trip needs a clear mission.

Before you go, pick 1–2 questions to answer, such as:

  • “Is there actually bedding where I think it is?”

  • “Is this funnel getting used regularly?”

  • “Where exactly is the freshest sign between this bedding and this food?”

On your map, circle or highlight the areas you intend to check. Bring:

  • Your phone or GPS

  • Notebook or notes app

  • Camera (phone is fine)

  • Basic safety gear and weather-appropriate clothing

Lesson 3.2 – Reading Sign in the Field

You’re looking for evidence of deer and how often they travel an area.

Tracks

  • Bigger, wider, deeper prints can indicate bigger deer, but soil matters.

  • Fresh tracks in mud, snow or soft dirt are worth noting.

Trails

  • Well-worn paths are obvious; faint trails may be more subtle but used by mature bucks.

  • Note:

    • Direction (toward which food or bedding?)

    • Width (lots of deer or just a few?)

Rubs

  • Vertical scars on small to medium trees.

  • Rub lines can indicate travel routes used by bucks.

  • Fresh rubs (bright wood, wet) in season are high-value data.

Scrapes

  • Oval patches of bare ground with overhanging licking branches.

  • Community scrapes (large, used by multiple deer) are often near travel hubs.

  • Freshness is key: wet soil, strong odor, fresh tracks.

Droppings & Beds

  • Piles of droppings along trails or near feeding areas.

  • Depressions in grass/leaves, often with hair inside, indicate beds.

  • Clustered beds may indicate doe bedding; single or isolated beds might be buck bedding (not a strict rule but a clue).

Write down:

  • What you find

  • How fresh it looks

  • Which direction the sign seems to indicate deer traveling

Lesson 3.3 – In-Season vs Off-Season Scouting

Off-Season Scouting (Post-season, late winter, early spring)

  • You can push closer to bedding and deep into cover.

  • Previous autumn’s sign is still visible: old rubs, trails, scrapes.

  • Great time to fine-tune stand sites and access routes.

In-Season Scouting

  • Must be more careful.

  • Limit intrusion near known bedding.

  • Best used to:

    • Check the fringes of areas you want to hunt soon

    • Confirm fresh sign near food sources or travel edges

    • Make small, targeted adjustments

In general:

  • The closer you get to core bedding, the more careful you should be.

  • If you bump deer repeatedly near a stand, you may need to back off and change approach.

Lesson 3.4 – Taking Useful Notes & Photos

For each scouting trip, log:

  • Date and time

  • Weather (especially wind direction)

  • Location(s) checked

  • Sign found:

    • Type (tracks, rubs, scrapes, beds)

    • Estimated freshness

  • Any human sign:

    • Boot prints, trash, stands, trail cams

  • Immediate thoughts:

    • “This trail looks like a better evening entry route than I thought.”

    • “Too much human pressure near this parking area.”

Use your phone camera for:

  • Wide photo of the surrounding area

  • Close-up of the sign

  • Optional: screenshot of your map with a mark near the sign

Lesson 3.5 – Updating Your Map After Scouting

When you get home (or in the truck):

  1. Move or adjust stand pins:

    • If you found better sign 40 yards away, move the stand pin.

    • If a spot is dead (no sign, poor access), mark it as a lower-priority stand or delete.

  2. Add sign pins:

    • “RUB LINE”

    • “COMMUNITY SCRAPE”

    • “HEAVY TRAIL”

    • “BEDDING VERIFIED”

  3. Adjust access:

    • Draw better entry/exit routes if you discovered easier, quieter or less intrusive paths.

Your map should slowly evolve into a true picture of deer patterns, not just what you imagined from the aerial.

Lesson 3.6 – Scouting Assignment

For the same area you e-scouted:

  1. Visit at least once (preferably more).

  2. Confirm or debunk:

    • Is bedding where you thought?

    • Are trails in the funnels you marked?

    • Does sign suggest early, rut, or late-season use?

  3. Update:

    • Stand pins

    • Sign pins

    • Access routes

  4. In your log, answer:

    • “What surprised me?”

    • “What did I get right?”

    • “Which stand now feels like my highest-confidence spot?”


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MODULE 4 – STAND PLACEMENT, ACCESS, WIND & THERMALS

Lesson 4.1 – Wind and Thermals: The Basics

Wind is the general direction air is moving, as shown on weather apps.

Thermals are vertical air movement caused by temperature differences:

  • Morning: cooling air can sink downhill, into bottoms.

  • Midday to afternoon (on sunny days): heating air can rise uphill.

Reality:

  • Wind rarely blows in a perfect straight line like your app shows.

  • Terrain and cover bend, funnel, and swirl wind in ways you must learn.

Key takeaways:

  • High, open areas may match the forecast more closely.

  • Draws, hollows, and creek bottoms often swirl or shift more.

  • Thermals tend to pull scent downhill in the cool morning and uphill when the sun warms slopes.

You don’t need a meteorology degree; just remember:

“Wind plus terrain and temperature equals where my scent actually goes.”

Lesson 4.2 – Choosing Stand Trees with Intention

When you pick a stand tree (or exact ground blind spot), consider:

  1. Wind Advantage

    • Your scent should mostly blow into an area you don’t expect deer to be.

    • Avoid putting your stand where typical deer movement will be downwind of you.

  2. Cover & Backdrop

    • You want something behind you to break up your outline.

    • Bare trees on a skyline are easy for deer to pick apart.

  3. Shot Opportunities

    • Clear lanes within your ethical range.

    • Consider:

      • Primary trail(s)

      • Expected approach direction

      • Potential shot obstacles (branches, brush)

  4. Access Potential

    • Can you get in and out without crossing major trails or spooking deer in likely bedding or feeding areas?

If a tree or spot looks perfect for visibility but terrible for wind or access, it is not a good stand.

Lesson 4.3 – Building Entry & Exit Routes

Entry and exit can make or break a spot.

Guidelines:

  • Stay out of sight Avoid sky lining on ridges where deer can see you from bedding or food.

  • Stay downwind of likely deer Plan routes so your wind isn’t blowing into bedding or along primary travel while you walk.

  • Use terrain & cover Creeks, ditches, and thick edges can hide your movement and noise.

  • Evening stands Be careful not to blow your scent into the field or food while approaching.

  • Morning stands Don’t walk through feeding areas where deer may still be before daylight.

Mark your entry and exit as paths on your map. If you can’t find a relatively low-impact route, rethink the stand location.

Lesson 4.4 – Designing a Wind Plan

For each primary stand, answer:

  1. Ideal wind(s):

    • Which wind directions keep your scent mostly away from where deer travel?

    • Example: “Good on NW–NE, risky on South winds, never with SE.”

  2. Risky winds:

    • “Borderline” winds that might work but carry some risk (e.g., crosswind that could swirl).

  3. Bad winds:

    • Winds that blow your scent exactly where deer will be or into bedding.

Create a simple rule:

“I will not hunt this stand if the wind is in the ‘bad’ category.”

Also think in terms of a 3-wind system:

  • Stands that hunt well on north winds

  • Stands for south winds

  • Stands for odd or variable winds (or backups near edges)

Lesson 4.5 – Mobile vs Fixed Setups

Fixed Stands

  • Pros:

    • Comfortable

    • Less setup hassle each hunt

  • Cons:

    • Less flexible

    • Can get “burned out” by pressure

Mobile Setups (climbers, hang-on, saddle, light ground blinds)

  • Pros:

    • Can adjust quickly to hot sign

    • Less chance of over-pressuring one tree

  • Cons:

    • More physical effort and time to set up

    • Learning curve

You don’t have to pick one forever. Many hunters run:

  • A few tried-and-true fixed stands

  • A mobile option for new or experimental spots

Lesson 4.6 – Stand & Wind Assignment

Pick one of your highest-confidence stands and do this:

  1. In your log:

    • Name the stand.

    • Describe:

      • Primary wind(s) you will hunt it on

      • Entry route

      • Exit route

      • What phase it’s best for (early, pre-rut, rut, late)

  2. On your map:

    • Confirm:

      • Stand pin

      • Entry path

      • Exit path

      • “NO GO” zones where you do not want your scent or footsteps

Repeat this for all primary stands as you have time.


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MODULE 5 – IN-SEASON TACTICS: EARLY, RUT, LATE

Lesson 5.1 – Early Season Strategy

Early season is usually a game of evening food and low intrusion.

Focus on:

  • Evening hunts where deer move from bedding to food.

  • Areas where you’ve found consistent trails from bed to feed.

  • Avoiding aggressive pushes into core bedding when it’s hot and patterns are still delicate.

Priorities:

  • Hunt evenings with good wind in stands near evening food.

  • Fire only your best sits when conditions line up (cool front, good wind, recent intel).

  • Monitor, don’t bomb the whole property with pressure.

Lesson 5.2 – Pre-Rut Strategy

Bucks start moving more. Sign increases. It’s a great “transition” window.

Focus on:

  • Fresh rubs and scrapes along known travel routes.

  • Edges near doe bedding areas.

  • Funnels that connect multiple bedding and food sources.

Tactics:

  • Shift slightly closer to bedding or travel hubs.

  • Consider morning hunts in or near travel corridors between bedding areas.

  • Watch weather:

    • Cool fronts and dropping temperatures often spark movement.

Lesson 5.3 – Rut Strategy

Rut is high-opportunity and high-chaos.

Focus on:

  • Funnels between multiple bedding areas.

  • Downwind sides of known doe bedding.

  • All-day sits in high-traffic zones.

Tactics:

  • Commit to longer sits when conditions are right.

  • Accept that deer may move at odd times and in odd directions.

  • Use calling cautiously:

    • Grunts and rattling can work, but overdoing it can hurt.

Your job is to be present in the best places long enough for opportunity to reach you.

Lesson 5.4 – Late Season Strategy

Late season is about food, survival, and limited daylight.

Focus on:

  • The best remaining food: picked corn fields, standing beans, hot food plots, browse.

  • Thick cover close to that food.

  • Careful wind and low disturbance—deer are on edge.

Tactics:

  • Prioritize evening hunts on cold, stable weather.

  • Dress properly so you can sit still in harsh conditions.

  • Avoid walking across the exact food you expect deer to use that evening.

Lesson 5.5 – Making In-Season Adjustments

You must respond to what actually happens:

  • If you see deer using a trail just out of range, consider:

    • A small stand adjustment (if safe and practical)

    • A separate stand or mobile setup for that pattern

  • If you spook deer on entry or exit:

    • Rethink timing or route.

    • See if you can approach from a different direction or use different cover.

  • If an area goes cold:

    • Look for:

      • New pressure (other hunters, human activity)

      • New food sources

      • Shifts in wind/weather patterns

Keep notes after every hunt. The patterns in those notes matter more than any single sit.

Lesson 5.6 – Season Plan Assignment

In your log, write a simple decision plan for your main property:

  • Early Season:

    • “If the evening wind is X and it’s early season, I will hunt Stand A or B because…”

  • Pre-Rut:

    • “If I see fresh scrapes along Ridge 1, I will shift to Stand C…”

  • Rut:

    • “If the wind is safe, I will prioritize all-day sits in Funnel Stand D…”

  • Late Season:

    • “If there is snow and cold temperatures, I will hunt Evening Stand E over the best remaining food…”

This doesn’t lock you in forever; it simply creates a default plan so you’re not guessing every time you look at the forecast.


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MODULE 6 – SHOT EXECUTION, RECOVERY & FIELD CARE

Lesson 6.1 – Shot Selection & Effective Range

Your job is to take high-percentage shots and pass on marginal ones.

Consider:

  • Angle

    • Broadside

    • Slight quartering away

    • Avoid steep quartering-to shots and frontal shots (high risk to wound)

  • Distance

    • Know your practiced, honest effective range.

    • Just because you can hit a target at a certain distance doesn’t mean you should shoot at a live animal at that same distance in questionable conditions.

  • Deer behavior

    • Calm, feeding deer vs high-alert deer.

    • Alert deer are more likely to “jump the string” on bow shots.

Set a simple rule in writing:

“My max ethical shot distance this year is ___ yards with my bow and ___ yards with my firearm, assuming the deer is calm and the angle is good.”

Lesson 6.2 – After the Shot: Tracking Basics

Once the shot is taken:

  1. Watch and listen

    • Note:

      • Where the deer was standing when you shot

      • Direction of travel

      • Any sounds of crashing

  2. Wait

    • The exact time depends on shot placement, but in general:

      • Double-lung / heart: wait at least 15–30 minutes.

      • Liver or unknown: wait longer (often an hour or more).

      • Suspected gut shot: wait several hours if possible.

  3. Mark the spot

    • Mentally or physically mark where the deer stood and where you last saw it.

  4. Follow the trail carefully

    • Look for:

      • Blood (color, consistency)

      • Hair

      • Tracks, disturbed leaves, broken branches

If sign gets sparse, slow down. Don’t trample the area. If you lose blood entirely, go back to the last marked spot and circle slowly, looking for the next drop or track.

Lesson 6.3 – Field Dressing & Meat Care (Overview)

Once recovered, your priority is clean, quick field care.

  • Field dress promptly

    • Remove internal organs carefully.

    • Avoid puncturing stomach or intestines if possible.

    • If you do, rinse contamination quickly and thoroughly.

  • Cool the meat

    • Prop the body cavity open to release heat.

    • In warm conditions, priority shifts even more to getting the hide off and meat cooled quickly.

  • Transport

    • Use a sled, cart, or help to avoid dragging for miles if possible.

    • Protect meat from dirt and debris as best you can.

You don’t need to be a professional butcher to treat meat with respect. Cleanliness, speed, and temperature control are the big three.

Lesson 6.4 – Kill Kit & Preparedness Assignment

Make a kill kit you can grab for any hunt. Include, at minimum:

  • Sharp knife (or two)

  • Gloves (if you prefer)

  • Small headlamp or light

  • Game bags or trash bags

  • Paracord or rope

  • Marker or tape for marking blood trail spots

Lay it out, photograph it, and store it together in your pack or in a dedicated pouch so nothing gets forgotten on the big day.


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MODULE 7 – POST-SEASON REVIEW & BUILDING YOUR SYSTEM

Lesson 7.1 – Post-Season Audit

At the end of the season (or periodically), answer these questions in your log:

  1. How many sits did I have?

  2. How many deer did I see, and where?

  3. Where did I see mature or target deer?

  4. Which stands produced encounters? Which didn’t?

  5. When did I feel “in the game” the most, and what were the conditions?

Try to avoid emotion or ego. Treat it like a data review.

Lesson 7.2 – Using Your Logs to Find Patterns

Read through your hunt and scouting logs. Look for:

  • Repeated conditions that led to good hunts:

    • Wind direction

    • Temperature

    • Phase of season

    • Stand locations that produced sightings

  • Repeated “dead” hunts:

    • Stands that never produced movement

    • Winds that consistently felt bad in certain areas

    • Times when access clearly blew deer out before legal light

Write down at least three lessons:

  • “Stand X is best with wind Y and a temperature drop.”

  • “Accessing via the creek worked much better than across the field.”

  • “Evening hunts near [food source] were my highest odds early season.”

Lesson 7.3 – Cleaning Up and Upgrading Your Map

On your map:

  1. Delete or mark low-value pins:

    • Stands that never worked

    • Routes you know are risky or loud

  2. Highlight high-value pins:

    • Rename or color-code stands that produced encounters or kills.

    • Mark bedding and travel areas that proved true over time.

  3. Add notes:

    • “Best on north wind, pre-rut evenings.”

    • “Great rut funnel; saw chasing here twice.”

Your map is now your long-term memory. Each year should make it more accurate and deadly.

Lesson 7.4 – Off-Season Projects & Next Steps

Use your post-season review to choose a few focus areas for the off-season:

  • If you hunt private land:

    • Small habitat improvements near bedding or travel routes

    • Simple food plots or improved natural browse

    • Stand/tree trimming for better concealment and shot lanes

  • If you hunt public land:

    • Explore deeper or overlooked pockets.

    • Scout new access points and backup spots.

    • Fine-tune knowledge of how people and deer use the area.

Also choose skills to sharpen:

  • Shooting practice schedule

  • More intentional scouting walks

  • Better note-taking after each hunt

Lesson 7.5 – Closing the Loop: Map to Meat

Return to the pre-course self-assessment you wrote.

Ask yourself:

  • Did I move closer to my primary goal (or achieve it)?

  • Which process goals did I actually follow?

  • What did I learn about deer, my spots, and myself as a hunter?

Then write a short statement:

“Next season, my primary goal is ________.I will focus on _______, _______ and _______ to make that happen.”

That statement, plus your evolved map and logs, is your next-level starting point.




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